Three Days in Tamarindo: Three Hostels, an ATV Tour, and New Beginnings
Beach sunsets, an ATV adventure, and one last comfort meal before heading off to volunteer with the Leatherback Trust - Tamarindo was the perfect bridge between two very different chapters of my Costa Rica journey.
From Liberia to Tamarindo
After spending three days settling into Costa Rica in Liberia, it was time to continue west towards the Pacific coast. My next destination was Tamarindo, one of the country's most popular beach towns and a place I'd heard plenty about from other travellers.
People talked about the surfing, sunsets, nightlife, and laid-back beach atmosphere. It sounded like the perfect place to spend a few days relaxing before heading somewhere completely different for the next chapter of my Costa Rica adventure.
Looking back, Tamarindo became much more than just another stop on my itinerary. It was where I slowly started feeling like myself again after everything that had happened earlier in my Central America journey.
My three days in Liberia had flown by, and it was time to catch another local bus. By now, I'd learned not to trust the travel times on Google Maps - Costa Rican buses almost always took longer than expected, especially when they stopped in every small town along the way.
Since hostel check-in wasn't until 3:00 p.m., there was no reason to rush. I packed up my big blue backpack, made the familiar walk to the bus station, and settled in for the journey with my earbuds in as the countryside rolled past the window.
Eventually, I arrived in Tamarindo.
My first impression was that it felt very different from Liberia. It was busy, touristy, and clearly built around the beach. Before long, I'd checked into my hostel, dropped off my backpack, and was ready to see what all the hype was about.
I also learned an important lesson.
Book your accommodation early in Costa Rica.
Unlike some of the other countries I'd travelled through in Central America, hostels here filled up quickly. By the time I booked my stay, almost every hostel was sold out for at least one of the nights I needed. Instead of spending three nights in one place, I ended up booking three different hostels.
Not exactly what I'd planned.
My first night was at La Oveja Tamarindo Hostel & Surf Camp. It had a lively backpacker atmosphere, and although it was busy, it immediately felt welcoming. After checking in, I discovered that despite requesting a bottom bunk, I'd been assigned another top bunk. Apparently, Costa Rica had decided my knees needed an extra workout.
There was only one way to find out if Tamarindo lived up to the hype.
Ready for the local bus ride from Liberia to Tamarindo, the next stop on my Costa Rica adventure.
My First Taste of Tamarindo
After dropping off my backpack, I changed into my swimsuit and made the fifteen-minute walk to Tamarindo Beach.
As I walked through town, I quickly realised why Tamarindo was so popular. Surfers carried boards through the streets, bars and restaurants overlooked the ocean, and tourists filled the sidewalks. American accents seemed to be everywhere, and at times it felt more like a beach town in the United States than Costa Rica.
Once I reached the beach, though, none of that really mattered.
The long stretch of golden sand gave everyone plenty of space to spread out, while surfers waited patiently beyond the waves for the perfect ride. After spending most of the day on a bus, it felt amazing to kick off my sandals, sink my feet into the sand, and simply enjoy being there.
I spent the afternoon relaxing, listening to the waves, and watching the sunset crowd slowly grow. Groups gathered with drinks, couples wandered along the shoreline, and I even watched what looked like a marriage proposal unfold on the beach. It was a lovely moment to witness, and as it turned out, it wouldn't be the last engagement I'd see during my stay in Tamarindo.
Then came another unforgettable Costa Rican sunset.
The sky faded through shades of orange, pink, and purple as the sun disappeared below the Pacific Ocean. No matter how many sunsets I watched during my two months in Costa Rica, they never lost their magic.
Afterwards, I wasn't quite ready to head back to the hostel.
Instead, I wandered into a local craft brewery and ordered a beer flight. Trying local craft beer is one of my favourite parts of travelling, so it felt like the perfect way to end my first day in Tamarindo.
Then something happened that still makes me laugh.
After travelling all day, walking around in the Costa Rican heat, and sitting on the beach, I was convinced I looked like an absolute hot mess. My hair was tied up in a messy bun, I was sweaty, slightly sunburnt, and definitely wasn't feeling my best.
As my server brought over my beers, she smiled and told me I looked beautiful.
I honestly looked around because I thought she must have been talking to someone else.
I laughed, thanked her, and probably blushed a little. Whether she genuinely meant it or was simply being kind, it completely caught me off guard. It's funny how a compliment from a complete stranger can brighten your day when you're travelling solo.
By the time I walked back towards the hostel, Tamarindo was really coming alive. Live music drifted from the bars, restaurants were filling up, and travellers were only just beginning their night.
A few months earlier, I probably would've joined them.
But after what had happened in Honduras, I still wasn't ready for that.
Instead, I climbed into my top bunk, excited for the next day's ATV tour - my Christmas gift from John.
Ending my first day in Tamarindo with a flight of Costa Rican craft beer after watching the sunset.
An ATV Adventure That Didn't Go to Plan
The next morning, I checked out of La Oveja Tamarindo Hostel & Surf Camp and moved to my second hostel, Hostel La Botella de Leche. It was a little quieter than my first hostel, and after letting me check in early, the staff showed me to my room.
Despite requesting a bottom bunk once again...
I was given another top bunk.
At this point, I was beginning to think Costa Rica had something against my knees.
After dropping off my backpack, it was finally time for the activity I'd been looking forward to since Christmas.
A few years earlier, my mom and stepdad, John, had visited Costa Rica and gone on an ATV tour. They talked about it so much afterwards that John surprised me by paying for one as a Christmas present.
The day before, I'd compared prices between a few companies before booking a two-hour tour for $75 USD. After a quick safety briefing, we put on our helmets and headed off.
Unfortunately, my excitement didn't last long.
Within minutes, I realised my ATV constantly pulled to the right. I spent almost the entire tour steering at an awkward angle just to keep it moving in a straight line. At our first stop, I mentioned it to the guide, but he insisted there was nothing wrong with the ATV and suggested the problem was me.
I wasn't convinced.
I've driven plenty of vehicles over the years, and this definitely didn't feel normal. Since there wasn't much I could do, I focused on enjoying the scenery instead.
The ride took us along dusty backroads through Guanacaste's dry forest, across a shallow stream - which I somehow managed to cross without getting my shoes wet - and eventually to a quiet beach for a short break.
I can't remember the beach's name, but I do remember sitting there with a rum and Coke, enjoying the peaceful ocean view. It was much quieter than Tamarindo Beach and ended up being one of my favourite parts of the tour.
The company also had photographers taking pictures throughout the ride. Instead of emailing them afterwards, they uploaded everything to Facebook - a clever marketing idea. Unfortunately, despite checking later, I never found my photos.
To this day, I'm convinced there are pictures of me somewhere online wrestling an ATV that refused to drive in a straight line.
After returning to Tamarindo, I headed back to the hostel for a quiet evening.
The following morning, I'd be packing my backpack yet again and moving into hostel number three.
All geared up and ready to hit the trails on my ATV adventure—before I discovered my quad had a mind of its own!
Backpacker Vibes and One Last Sunset
The following morning, I checked out of Hostel La Botella de Leche and shouldered my backpack for the third day in a row.
By then, moving between hostels had become routine. It wasn't ideal, but it taught me one of the biggest lessons from Costa Rica: book your accommodation early. Popular destinations like Tamarindo fill up quickly, and a little planning would have saved me from packing up every morning.
My final stop was Tamarindo Backpackers, the hostel I'd wanted to stay at from the beginning.
As soon as I arrived, I knew it was more my style.
The atmosphere was relaxed and social. Backpackers gathered in the common areas swapping travel stories, planning their next destinations, or returning from a morning of surfing. It felt like one of those places where conversations happened naturally, and I immediately understood why it was so popular.
After checking in, I headed back into town for one last afternoon.
Before making my way to the beach, I treated myself to one final comfort meal. Normally, I try to eat as much local food as possible when I travel, but I knew my next stop would be very different. The following day, I'd be travelling to Cabuyal to volunteer with the Leatherback Trust, and I had no idea what meals would be like there. A greasy burger and fries sounded like the perfect send-off.
With a full stomach, I wandered back to Tamarindo Beach one last time.
I spent the afternoon watching surfers glide across the waves and soaking up the atmosphere before another spectacular Pacific sunset painted the sky in shades of orange, pink, and purple.
As darkness fell, I headed back to the hostel.
Instead of keeping to myself, I found a seat in the common area and joined the conversations.
Looking back now, I don't think I realised how important that simple decision would become.
The backpacker atmosphere at Tamarindo Backpackers made it easy to meet fellow travellers and share stories from the road.
More Than Just Another Beach Town
As the evening went on, I found myself doing something I hadn't done in quite a while.
Talking to other backpackers.
The hostel's common area slowly filled with travellers swapping stories about where they'd been and where they were heading next. Many were continuing south to places like Santa Teresa, Montezuma, and Manuel Antonio. Part of me wanted to keep exploring too, but public transportation seemed confusing, and taxis would've stretched my budget far beyond what I could afford.
Instead, I stuck with the plan I'd already made.
Looking back, I'm glad I did.
Without really noticing, something had changed during my time in Costa Rica.
After the attempted phone theft at knifepoint in Honduras, I'd become much more cautious. I wasn't as quick to trust strangers or throw myself into conversations with other travellers. Nicaragua had started rebuilding that confidence, but Tamarindo was where I finally felt comfortable letting my guard down again.
By the end of my stay, I was laughing with complete strangers, swapping travel tips, and looking forward to the adventures still waiting for me instead of thinking about what had happened in the past.
The following morning, I packed up my backpack one last time and said goodbye to Tamarindo.
Before arriving, I'd expected it to be just another beach town.
Instead, it became an important chapter in my Central America journey.
Tamarindo wasn't my favourite destination in Costa Rica. It was busy, touristy, and at times felt more like a slice of the United States than the Costa Rica I'd imagined.
But looking back, it arrived at exactly the right time.
Tamarindo gave me beautiful sunsets, a memorable - if slightly frustrating- ATV adventure, great local craft beer, and, most importantly, the confidence to start opening up to people again.
The next stop on my journey was Cabuyal, where I'd spend three unforgettable weeks volunteering with the Leatherback Trust. I was about to trade backpacker hostels and busy beaches for a small volunteer station surrounded by dry forest, helping protect one of the world's largest sea turtles.
At the time, I had no idea that volunteering there would become one of the highlights of my entire Costa Rica adventure.
Three days, three hostels, unforgettable sunsets, and an ATV adventure—Tamarindo was more than just another stop on my Costa Rica journey.
