*From Nintendo to temples — Japan always feels like stepping into another world.*

For my second trip to Japan, I had one main goal: to spend my birthday at Tokyo Disneyland and DisneySea. I also planned to meet up with a friend I’d met in Hong Kong.

I stayed at Hotel II Fiore Kasai, where I could see the Disney castle and volcano off in the distance from my window. The metro and bus station were right next to each other. I chose the bus to go to Disney because it was the first stop on the line to Disneyland, which meant I always had a seat — while the metro was already packed with people. It was a comfortable 30-minute ride (even though Google Maps promised 15!).

I spent one full day at each park, from opening to closing, and absolutely loved every minute. The rides, the characters, the atmosphere — it was pure Disney magic. Time went by way too quickly at both parks. I took way too many photos, bought myself a new Disney shirt, Mickey ears, and even Mickey Mouse sunglasses after mine broke. Since it was my birthday, I picked up a birthday sticker, and every staff member greeted me with cheerful “Happy Birthdays.”

The parks were busy, but everything felt well-organized. Mickey wasn’t just in one spot — he had his own photo building as well as appearances scattered throughout the day, which made it easy to meet him. My tip: download the app and buy your tickets in advance, and arrive early if you want to be among the first inside. Tickets were around ¥8,400 per park (about $75 USD at the time), and totally worth it for a full day of fun.

One of my favorite memories: while I was watching the fireworks at DisneySea, my grandmother called to wish me a happy birthday. I didn’t know then it would be her last.

By the end of two long, magical days, I was exhausted but completely happy. Still, there was no rest for the wicked — my next stop was something I’d been dreaming about since I was a child: Mount Fuji.

*Birthday magic in Tokyo Disneyland — feeling like a kid again in the happiest place on Earth.*

Mount Fuji

I boarded the Tokaido Shinkansen to Shin-Fuji station (about ¥5,000 one-way). I had an assigned seat and chose a window — the best way to enjoy the view. The ride was smooth and fast, but once I arrived, I realized most of the famous photo spots and hiking trails are actually on the north side of the mountain. Locals told me it’s harder to access, and with overtourism becoming an issue, fences had been set up to limit the crowds.

From Shin-Fuji, I tried catching a bus to my hostel — 14 Guest House Mt. Fuji. Google Maps wasn’t very helpful, and I likely missed the first bus. The second bus ride was over an hour long (¥500–¥600), and I accidentally got off too early, which turned it into a bit of an adventure.

All that effort was worth it, though. The hostel was fairly new and had a rooftop with a perfect view of Mount Fuji. I only wished there were chairs up there, because my dream was to sit back with a cold beer and watch the sunset behind the mountain.

*Beer, sushi, and Mount Fuji — the perfect Japanese trio.*

Before the sunset, I visited the Mount Fuji World Heritage Centre (¥300 entry). I had to take another bus to get there — also about an hour — but this time it was smooth, comfortable, and new. And thankfully, I didn’t get lost. Walking the museum’s circular ramp mimicked climbing the mountain, with changing visuals to reflect the different altitudes. I spent about an hour there, and the staff were wonderfully kind, even pointing out the best angles for photos. Outside, I visited the iconic red torii gates and wandered through Fujisan Hongu Sengen Taisha Shrine, slowly soaking up the atmosphere.

Back at the hostel, I grabbed some food and beer from a Family Mart and settled on the rooftop. Clouds rolled in, so the sunset wasn’t perfect, but the experience was. The next morning, heavy rain kept me from getting closer to Fuji, so I decided to move on — my next stop was Osaka.

*Stepping into the shadows of explorers at the Mount Fuji World Heritage Center.*

Osaka

The Shinkansen back to Osaka was an adventure in itself (around ¥13,000). While waiting for my train, I watched in awe as other bullet trains sped past, nearly knocking me over with their force. I bought a snack and hot chocolate for the ride, grabbed my window seat, and listened to music while Japan blurred past me. A word of caution: Japan has two train companies, so make sure you’re on the right one. A fellow traveler boarded the wrong service and had to pay for a second ticket.

*Japan’s famous bullet train — fast, smooth, and always on time (rain or shine).*

In Osaka, I checked into Cote House Hostel, conveniently close to the metro. The staff upgraded me to a private room — two nights came to about $56 CAD. Best of all, the hostel had a fluffy cat that loved following guests around. I may or may not have let him nap in my room.

That evening, I wandered into the Dotonbori area, famous for its neon lights and nightlife. I stumbled across a local craft beer bar — Dotonbori Beer — and tried a pint (¥600) before walking aimlessly through the lively streets.

Exploring Osaka

The next morning, I headed straight for the Museum of Osaka History. I bought a dual ticket for about ¥600 that included both the museum and Osaka Castle. I spent a couple of hours in the museum before grabbing a chicken cutlet sandwich from a convenience store and eating it on a park bench overlooking the castle.

When I arrived at the castle, I was so glad I’d already purchased my ticket. The line to buy tickets stretched on forever, but I was able to walk right past and head inside. Each floor told a different part of Osaka’s history, and from the top I had sweeping views of the city. It was crowded, but worth it.

Before leaving the grounds, I treated myself to a 30-minute boat ride along the castle moat (¥1,000) — a little birthday-month splurge. Since I was first in line, I picked a front-side seat. Gliding past the stone walls and trees gave me quiet views and great photos — a peaceful contrast to the crowds inside.

*Cruising the moat around Osaka Castle — the best seat in the house!*

Before heading to my next stop, I found a post office nearby and sent postcards home to my friends and family.

To end my day, I visited Harukas 300, Japan’s tallest building from 2014 to 2023. Tickets were about ¥2,000, and the observatory spans the 58th–60th floors with panoramic 360° views across Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe, and even the Rokko Mountains. I was hungry, so I ordered both fries and a beer and found a table with a view. Seating fills quickly at sunset, so it’s worth going early if you want a good spot. I stayed until nightfall, watching the city light up beneath me.

Back at the hostel, I grabbed a simple dinner from the convenience store, watched Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles III (fittingly set in Japan), and started packing for my next adventure — Shanghai, to meet my best friend and celebrate my birthday at another Disney park.

*Hotel room vibes: salad, chopsticks, and Japanese cinema.*

A Bittersweet Ending

That same day, I received heartbreaking news: my grandmother had passed away. I was grateful she had been able to wish me one last happy birthday during the DisneySea fireworks — a memory I will cherish forever. The trip, which had been filled with birthday magic and adventure, suddenly became bittersweet. Even now, the memory of Osaka will always be tied to that day — a reminder that travel and life’s emotions are deeply intertwined.